Tana Toraja

The Centre of tourism in Tana Toraja is Rantepao, 328 km Northeast of Ujung Pandang. Sitting 700 meters above sea level, Rantepeo has cool, pleasant evenings. A gate built in traditional boat-shaped style marks the entry to Tana Toraja. The road passes the spectacular mountains of Kandora and Gandang on which, according to Toraja mythology, the first ancestors of celestial beings descended from heaven. Two villages with easily accessible cliff graves are Lemo and Londa. Londa is one of the oldest hanging grave sites, in which are buried many members of local nobility. A large balcony is filled with effigies of the dead, the Tau Tau. Young village guides with kerosene lamps can be hired to enter the caves. At Lemo, burial chambers are cut out of the rock and several balconies filled with Tau Tau overlook new caves being dug to serve as family graves.

Palawa is an excellent village to visit a "Tongkonan", or a burial place still swarming with celebrations and festivals. Visitors are welcome but they are expected to adhere to local dress customs, and to bring a token present, such as cigarettes or coffee. Take a side trip from Rantepeoto Kete, a traditional village with excellent handicraft shops. Behind the village on a hillside is a gravesite with life-size statues guarding over old coffins.

Getting Around

By Air:
The airport serving Rantepao is at Rantetayo, near Makle, 24 km south of Rantepao and there is a bus service to town.

By Land:
Buses to Rantepao from Ujung Pandang leave daily from Ujung Pandang. The journey takes 8 hours and includes a meal stop. Tickets should be bought in town but coaches actually leave from Panaikan bus terminal, 20 minutes out of town by bemo. Coaches typically leave in the morning (7 am), afternoon (1 pm) and at night (7 pm). Several companies in Rantepao run buses back to Ujung Pandang with the departure time and prices. The number of buses each day depends on the number of passengers.

Local Transportation:
Bemo is the best way to get to know the locals, besides chartered vehicles (minibuses and Jeeps) with or without driver.