Monday, June 2, 2008

Madura Bull Races

. Monday, June 2, 2008

According to local lore, the traditions of the bull races began when ploughmen raced each other across grassy plains under the eye of the King of Sumanep, Panembahan Sumolo. This grew, as all popular sports, into a lucrative industry, where winning studs are bought and bred for large sums of money.
In truth, there are a certain number of criteria a bull must have to be eligible, and bull breeders keep their young bulls on a tight diet of medicinal herbs, honey, raw eggs and beer until such time they are fit enough to race.
The first races held in early April are small, local affairs, with winners moving on to the Grand Final at Pamekasan, the capital. The explosion of wild colors, flowers and finery of 100 gilt adorned bulls is a breathtaking sight for all to behold as they parade around the stadium to the powerful fanfare of the Gamelan and gongs to excite the bull, which is simultaneously being fed arak, to release its tensions; at that point the bull is released, charging headlong into the field, or just as often into the crowd of spectators with equal abandon.
The best time ever recorded by a bull was just over 9 seconds in the 100 meter dash track, much faster than man's fastest attempt; to the winning jockey, generous prizes, to the bull a comfortable lifestyle at stud. Major races are held at Bangkalan, Pamekesan and Sumanep. The East Java Tourist Office in Surabaya will have precise details of the races as well as a full calendar of events.

Where To Eat In Surabaya
A variety of cuisines are available in Surabaya. Good quality western food is most likely found in hotel outlets while Indonesian or Chinese food is best sampled in the restaurants along the main streets. The Kuningan International Seafood restaurant is a classic Chinese seafood palace. One famous Surabaya restaurant has now opened branches across Java: Soto Ambengan offers authentic Soto Ayam, Surabaya chicken soup.

Staying In Surabaya
Surabaya is well served by up-market chain hotels, including the Hyatt Regency, Radisson Hotel, Shangri-La Hotel, Patra Hilton Hotel and the local Sahid chain. The Garden Palace is a long established locally operated hotel while the Majapahit is a historical property refurbished and now operated by Mandarin Oriental. The Surya Hotel is a good choice in the hill resort of Tretes.

Getting Around In Surabaya
There is an hourly shuttle service from Jakarta, frequent flights form Bali and Ujung Pandang and a direct service from Singapore, Taipei, Guangzhou, Perth and Hong Kong. Fast, comfortable trains travel overnight from Jakarta. Luxury bus services operates from Bali and Yogyakarta.

By Air:
Garuda Indonesia has five daily flights operating from Denpasar to Surabaya, and one from Bandung. In addition the national carrier runs twelve daily shuttle flights between Jakarta and this East Javanese provincial capital, with the private airline Mandala offering three more.

By Sea:
The state-owned company Pelni maintains regular passenger services between Surabaya and Jakarta; Ujungpandang, Balikpapan, Denpasar, Ambon and Manado, with each of its six its six liners-the KM Kambuna, KM Rinjani, KM Umsini, KM Kerinci, KM Tidar and KM Lawit-sailing twice a week in either direction.

By Land:
The 900-kilometer distance between Jakarta and Surabaya can be traveled in about 14 hours over land by private car or bus via Cirebon, Semarang and Tuban, on the north coast. The trip by train over the same northern route normally takes about 16 hours. Trains depart Jakarta's Gambir railroad station for East Java twice a day.

Taxis:
A large city with modern conveniences, taxis are readily available from your hotel, alternatively make arrangements with your concierge.

Car Rental:
Chauffeur-driven rented cars are available in all large towns. Self-driven vehicles are also available, though not recommended, for intricate travel. Established taxi services and car rental companies offer fixed rates for hourly or specific routes. If you choose to drive your self, a valid International Driving License is required. Most International road conventions are observed in Surabaya, although right-of-way tends to go to the larger vehicle and turns are not always signalled. Remember to drive on the left and overtake only on the right. Turning left at a red light is allowed only when indicated. Do not expect other drivers to obey traffic laws or conventions, including traffic lights.

Activities
Surabaya is a busy port town, and a walk to the old harbor should not be missed. Filled with a variety of vessels ranging from brightly painted schooners to aging warship, there are always sights to see at the harbor. However, shopping and golf also feature prominently on the Surabaya 'to do list'.

Attractions
The most interesting areas of Surabaya are the old Arab and Chinese quarters at the northern end of the city, not far from the harbor. Spend some time wandering the narrow lanes to the east of Jl. K.H. Mas Mansyur, around the mosque and the Holy Grave of Sunan Ampel, one of the nine saints who propagated Islam on the Island. Many stalls around the mosque sell handmade textiles from all over Java.

Just to the south of here, at Jl. Dukuh II/2 is the Hong Tik Hian Temple, where Chinese hand-puppet (potehi) performances are put on daily for the benefit of the assembled deities. And just across Jl. Kembang Jepun, on Jl. Selompretan, stands Surabaya's oldest Chinese shrine-the 18th Century Hok An Kiong Temple-built entirely of wood in the traditional manner by native Chinese craftsmen. The temple's central deity is Ma Co, the protectress of sailors. From the Chinese quarter, walk West ward along Jl. Kembang Jepun to the famous "Red Bridge" straddling Kali Mas canal. This lies at the very heart of the 19th Century commercial district, where many dilapidated Dutch ware-houses and office buildings still stand.

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